Bahiana Americana?

Brazil’s Independence Day is September 7^th, but in the state of Bahia, July 2^nd is celebrated with just as many festivities. July 2^nd is the date of Bahia’s independence from Portugal, and since they defeated the Portuguese on this date, they celebrate it as their true independence day. The school where I was volunteering was participating in an Independence Day parade, and they invited several volunteers to take part in it. It was a once in a lifetime invitation, so I knew I couldn’t turn it down!

A couple of other volunteers and I left the house in the morning to meet some of the parade organizers and get our costumes. We had to take a boat to get to an old fort on the water where the costumes where stored. Once we arrived, the women changed into Bahiana costumes, and the men dressed as Portuguese royalty. We then took a boat back to Pelourinho, the historical area where the parade was starting. The other “Bahianas” and I lined up behind the school marching band and practiced some dance steps that we were taught. As soon as the marching band started playing and marching, we followed in step behind them.

To my surprise, the first song the marching band played was “I Believe I Can Fly” by the American artist R. Kelly, followed by “Beautiful Girl” by Akon. The Brazilian student in front of me turned around and smiling, asked if I knew the songs. Of course I knew the songs, I thought. I might as well have been at one of my high school football games. Just as I was starting to feel at home, though, I noticed that the crowds on the street looked strangely at us volunteers dressed as Bahianas. I was sure that I could read their minds, and my thoughts were confirmed when I could hear murmurs of “Bahiana Americana?” and “gringa?” What was I doing dressed as a typical Bahian woman? Wasn’t this parade supposed to represent Brazil’s history? I definitely didn’t have Brazilian ties, and I began to question my role in the parade, and how I was perceived by the Brazilians. I turned to the young Brazilian student who had talked to me earlier and mentioned that I felt weird being a “Bahiana Americana”. Without missing a beat, she said to me, “Why? It’s not weird. “Tudos somos um mundo”. We are all one world.” I was blown away by the genuine response of the young student who so easily could look past our differences.

The group of volunteers before the parade. The Salvador skyline is in the background.













A quick pose on the fort before the parade.













The school marching band.

“Todos somos um mundo.”

That statement sums up my experience in Brazil pretty well. Although I was immersed in a completely different culture and language, I found out time and time again how much we are all the same. Dark skinned or fair skinned, rich or poor, we all suffer through the trials of life, and rejoice in its blessings. When we take the chance to listen to the stranger, we are often given a profound understanding of the world in that moment that we cared.

Salvador

My service project took place in Salvador, a large city on the northeastern coast of the country. It was the first capital of Brazil, and many of the original churches and government buildings that were built after the Portuguese arrived are still standing today. Because thousands of slaves built the city, there is a unique blend of elements of African culture with Brazilian culture in Salvador.

The old town square in Salvador.

Upon arriving in the state of Bahia where Salvador is located, I was eager to try as many types of different Bahian foods as possible. The first thing I noticed were the green coconut stands and carts that seemed to appear around every corner. Vendors chill the coconuts, then cut open the top for you when you buy one. You drink the natural water inside of it, and afterward you can eat the soft white inside.

The inside is actually soft and a bit slimy.

I also quickly realized that there are a myriad of tropical fruits in Brazil that I’ve been missing out on for a long time. When a Brazilian friend asked me if I wanted to try pinha, (pronounced peen-yah), I thought she was offering me pineapple because it sounds just like the Spanish word for pineapple. Instead, she brought me this:

Pinha. You eat the white part of this fruit, which is very sweet.

One of the most typical Bahian foods is acarajé. It is made of a fried dough made from ground black eyed peas, topped with dried shrimp, lentils, and sauces. The woman in the picture would be called a Bahiana, since she is from the state of Bahia.

Dough fries in hot palm oil while a Bahiana prepares acarajé for a customer.

During my stay, I came to learn that not all of Brazil is like Salvador. Generally, southern Brazil is economically much more developed than northern Brazil. The two halves also differ because southern Brazilians are mostly from European descent, while a large part of northern Brazilians have African roots. I considered this complex dynamic as I began my service experience.

Service

During my volunteer experience, I stayed at a house with other volunteers, and we each went to our volunteer placements during the day. I was assigned to work at an NGO school that serves children from 3 years old until about 8^th grade. Specifically, I was asked to help with a photography project. My assignment was to take natural photographs of the children while they were doing their daily activities. Administrators needed these photographs to show the global community tangible evidence of what the school is accomplishing. I also helped other volunteers teach English and art classes.

My photography project allowed me to serve as a teacher’s aid, and gain an inside look at education in Salvador. This experience was especially interesting to me, because I have focused on international education in several of my class projects. The children, (meninos), were excited to have me in their classrooms, getting my attention by calling, “Oi, tia!” which means “Hey, miss!”

At that school, all the students receive a snack and a lunch that the cafeteria staff cooks. They would eat simple meals like rice and sausage or bean soup, and drank water in small plastic cups. For some of the children, it can be the only meal that they will receive that day. The thought that some of the children have known hunger came across very clearly when I was helping teach art class. The other volunteer and I were showing the 4 year-old students how to make apple prints using apples, paint, and construction paper. As soon as the other volunteer dipped the cut apple into the paint, many of the children gasped and shrieked. “I can’t believe it!” they said. “Why are you wasting an apple?!” many asked. It made me realize just how often I take food for granted.

Below is a picture of another art project that I helped a volunteer teach to a class of 5 year olds. We made paper Bahiana dolls. Bahiana traditional dress usually includes a head wrap, long layered skirts, a ruffled blouse, and colored beads. The outfit is usually all white, but it can also be in color too.

The students made the dolls out of paper plates and coffee filters, and they turned out to be really cute!

Bahiana paper doll

One of the classrooms where I volunteered. They were singing a song about a crocodile. :)

The 3 year-olds learn how to walk to lunch in a line.

Although the school facilities are nice, the housing behind the school reflects where the students come from.

I really enjoyed my time at the school because I love children, and I'm very interested in international education issues. I saw how the most energetic and passionate teachers at the school worked hard to keep their students' attention throughout every moment of the day. Most of the issues that I discovered are closely linked to poverty, and in fact weren't very different from problems that some educators face in poor areas in the United States.